米兰颓废青年的守护神(下)

The bar is close to Parco delle Basiliche. I thought it would be nice for young people to have a place when they can get a cheap beer to enjoy the park and the square, Rattazzo said. "Especially in the summers, who wants to drink inside four walls?"

Rattazzo 说，“酒吧靠近大教堂公园（Parco delle Basiliche），我想，如果有地方让年轻人购买廉价啤酒，在公园和广场上畅饮，一定会是个好主意。尤其是夏天，谁想闷坐在四堵墙里喝酒呢？”

The idea was a hit. Rattazzo added panino and meatballs to the menu. Artists and journalists living in Ticinese also began coming to eat and discuss political issues. They were known collectively as theGioventú Bruciata, or Wasted Youth, a reference to the Italian title for the 1950 film Rebel Without a Cause. These students and workers began challenging the status quo in both employment and education. In 1968 and 1969, it came to a head when students occupied universities and workers led strikes across the north, a time now referred to as the Hot Autumn.

这个主意大受欢迎。Rattazzo 还在菜单上增加了小面包和肉丸。住在提契诺区的艺术家和记者们也开始来酒吧吃东西，讨论政治问题。他们被合称为“Gioventú Bruciata”（颓废青年），这来自 1950 年的意大利电影《无因的反叛》（Rebel Without a Cause）。这些学生和工人开始对教育和就业现状发出挑战。尤为突出的是 1968 年和 1969 年，在意大利北部，学生占领大学，工人组织罢工，现在将这个时期称为火热的秋天（Hot Autumn）。

By 1971, Bar Rattazzo was well known as the unofficial speakeasy of Milan’s far-left movement. Throughout the ‘70s, anarchists, socialists, and communists met to write manifestos over beers and cheap eats. Revolutionary writer Mario Capanna, street artist Davide Tinelli and Anarcho-punk author Primo Moroni are just a few of the legendary Ticinese residents who became regulars at Bar Rattazzo.

到了 1971 年，Rattazzo 酒吧成为米兰极左运动中远近闻名的反主流文化地下酒吧。整个 1970 年代，无政府主义者、社会主义者和共产主义者常常在这里聚会，一边享用廉价啤酒和食物，一边撰写各种宣言。革命作家马里奥•卡帕纳（Mario Capanna）、街头艺术家达维德•蒂内利（Davide Tinelli）和无政府朋客作家普里莫•莫洛尼（Primo Moroni）等提契诺区居民中的传奇人物都曾是 Rattazzo 酒吧的常客。

As the 1970s came to a close, the idealism of the era lost focus during the heroin epidemic of the late ‘70s and early ‘80s. The parks and piazzas near Bar Rattazzo became increasingly dangerous; muggings were a constant concern. Most famously, the fugitive gangster Renato Vallanzasca, “Il Bel René” (the pretty boy Renè) began to lurk in Parco delle Basiliche, bringing with him the air of lawlessness that permeated the time.

1970 年代末期，在 1970 年代末期和 1980 年代初期海洛因泛滥的时代，理想主义时代迷失了方向。Rattazzo 酒吧附近的公园和广场日益危机重重，行凶抢劫屡见不鲜。最著名的就是逃亡的暴徒 Renato Vallanzasca（“Il Bel René”——漂亮男孩勒内），他开始潜伏在大教堂公园，随他而来的是弥漫在那个年代的无法无天。

Junkies were snatching necklaces right outside my shop. It was a scary time. Things are much better now, Rattazzo said.

Rattazzo 说，“吸毒者就在我的酒吧外抢劫项链。那个时候可真恐怖，现在的情况要好多了”。

In response, the city closed parks after sunset and the once youthful surroundings were cloaked in the shadow of drugs and crime. Without a place to congregate, the neighbourhood lost its centre and students were forced to move from one place to another as cops and criminals harassed them after dark. It wasn’t until the 1990s that drug use declined and crime was brought under control.

针对这样的情况，米兰决定在日落后关闭公园以及笼罩着毒品和犯罪阴影的年轻人聚集地带。失去了聚集场所，社区也就失去了中心地位，学生们被迫四处迁移，因为天黑后警察和罪犯都会骚扰他们。直到 1990 年代，吸毒和犯罪才得到控制。

In the early 2000s, Italian brands like Armani and Dolce & Gabbana saw Ticinese as a place to market to young people. They tried to buy out storeowners in hopes of turning the main street, Corso di Porta Ticinese, into a fashion hub. Rattazzo was approached by both to sell his shop and refused. He finally relented and sold the store to the now defunct fashion brand, Guru, moving his shop in the alley Via Vetere, a few metres closer to the park.

2000 年代初，阿玛尼（Armani）和杜嘉班纳（Dolce & Gabbana）等意大利品牌将提契诺区作为向年轻人推广的购物场所。他们设法购买店家，希望将主干道 Corso di Porta Ticinese 改造为时尚中心。阿玛尼和杜嘉班纳都曾希望 Rattazzo 卖掉酒吧，但他拒绝了。他最终心软，将酒吧店面卖给了现已不复存在的时尚品牌“Guru”，并将酒吧迁至距离公园仅几米之遥的小巷 Via Vetere。

I never plan to close or retire. Being around young people keeps me young. That’s why I’m still here, Rattazzo said.

Rattazzo 表示，“我从未打算要关掉酒吧或是退休。在年轻人中间会让我感到年轻。这也是我之所在还在这里的原因”。

Nowadays, the neighbourhood, once a mecca of the Milanese left, is filled with families and tourists. Chinese immigrants have revitalized the area with restaurants and bars. Armani and Dolce & Gabbana have moved on, but in their place are younger fashion brands like Carhartt and Camper. The young people are still here, too, hanging out on the steps of the Piazza della Vetra and drinking cheap beers on the lawn of Parco delle Basiliche. Most are unaware that the old man selling beers from the small bar in the alley is a legend, who fostered the atmosphere of freedom they now enjoy.

如今在这个当初米兰的圣地，到处是当地居民和游客。中国移民经营的餐厅和酒吧让这个地区重又焕发生机。阿玛尼和杜嘉班纳继续经营，但其地盘上又出现了年轻的时尚品牌，如卡哈特（Carhartt）和看步（Camper）。年轻人仍然会来这里，在大教堂公园的阶梯上闲逛，在大教堂公园的草地上喝廉价的啤酒。大多数人并不会意识到，在巷子里小酒吧里兜售啤酒的老人是一个传奇，他曾经为营造他们现在所享有的自由空气做出贡献。