Dolce Gabbana反对同性家庭引抨击狂潮
Over the last 30 years, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have dressed Madonna, designed costumes for Baz Luhrmann movies and fended off one of the most convoluted tax evasion cases in recent business history.
过去30多年里，杜梅尼克·多尔奇(Domenico Dolce)和斯蒂芬诺·加班纳(Stefano Gabbana)为麦当娜(Madonna)提供服装，为巴兹·鲁赫曼(Baz Luhrmann)的电影设计戏服，并且从近年来商业史上最复杂的逃税案件诉讼中逃脱。Well before same-sex marriage became widely recognized around the world (though not in Italy), the two were openly living together as lovers, unapologetic as they showed up in their tight white T-shirts at gay clubs like the Sound Factory. A recent ad campaign for their fashion line, Dolce & Gabbana, seemed to extol group sex.
早在同性婚姻在全世界广泛受到认可之前（尽管在意大利尚未得到承认），两人便公然以恋人身份同居，身穿紧身白T恤衫，毫无愧色地在“声音工厂”之类男同性恋俱乐部出双入对。他们的时装品牌杜嘉班纳(Dolce & Gabbana)最近的广告宣传似乎又在赞美群交。
So it was something of a surprise this week when word broke that the two men, who are no longer romantically involved but still run their business together, had given an interview in the Italian magazine Panorama in which they said they opposed gay people having families of their own.
这个星期传来惊人的消息：恋爱关系已经走到尽头，但仍然在一起经营生意的这两位，在接受意大利杂志《帕诺拉玛》(Panorama)采访时称，他们不赞成男同性恋者组成自己的家庭。
“You are born to a mother and a father, or at least that’s how it should be,” Mr. Dolce said. “I call children of chemistry, synthetic children. Rented uterus, semen chosen from a catalog.”
“人们天生注定是爸爸和妈妈，至少应当如此，”多尔奇说，“我把那种化学手段生出来的孩子称为‘人工合成的孩子’，他们是用租来的子宫，从目录里选出来的精子生出来的。”Outrage was swift.
此言引发的愤怒之情迅速蔓延开来。Elton John, who has two children via in-vitro fertilization with his husband, David Furnish, called for a boycott of Dolce & Gabbana, a brand he has long worn. Courtney Love declared her intention to burn all the D&G clothing she owned. The director Ryan Murphy tweeted that Dolce & Gabbana’s clothes are “as ugly as their hate.”
埃尔顿·约翰和丈夫大卫·弗内什(David Furnish)拥有两个通过试管婴儿方式生下的孩子，他呼吁抵制杜嘉班纳，这个品牌他已经穿了很久。柯妮·拉芙(Courtney Lve)宣布，她打算烧掉自己所有的杜嘉班纳服装。导演瑞安·墨菲(Ryan Murphy)发推特说，杜嘉班纳的服装“和他们的憎恨一样丑陋”。Andy Cohen, the host of “Watch What Happens: Live,” said earlier this week that he was auctioning his black Dolce suit on eBay and would donate the money to the Family Equality Council, a gay rights organization. “Even though I loved this suit,” he said in the listing, “it wouldn’t be any fun for me to wear it again.” (By Wednesday afternoon, bidding had reached $1,850.)
“观察：现场”(Watch What Happens: Live)的主持人安迪·科恩(Andy Cohen)本周早些时候说，他正在eBay上拍卖自己的黑色杜嘉班纳西装，并打算把拍得的款项捐赠给男同性恋权利组织“家庭平等委员会”。“尽管我喜欢那件衣服，”他在物品描述中说，“我也不会再乐意穿它了。”（截止周三下午，拍卖额已经达到1850美元）。It was the second time in the last year that members of the fashion and entertainment communities have called for the boycott of a global brand over gay rights issues, the other involving the Dorchester hotels owned by the sultan of Brunei, among them the Beverly Hills Hotel, Le Meurice in Paris and the Principe di Savoia in Milan. Brunei is implementing laws allowing harsh punishment for gay sex and adultery.
一年来，这已是时尚与娱乐界第二次因为同性恋权利问题而呼吁抵制某个国际品牌了。上一次遭抵制的是文莱苏丹拥有的多切斯特酒店集团(Dorchester)，其中包括了贝弗利山庄酒店(Beverly Hills Hotel)、巴黎的默里斯酒店(Le Meurice)和米兰的萨维亚普瑞斯普(Principe di Savoia)酒店。起因是文莱法律严惩同性性行为及通奸。The difference this time, in what seems like a tacit acknowledgment of the power a major advertiser wields in the publishing world: no editor of a fashion magazine contacted for this article would agree to comment or even be interviewed about the proposed boycott, not even Anna Wintour of Vogue, who took a very public stance over the Brunei issue, banning Vogue staff members from staying at those hotels and actively encouraging other Condé Nast executives to do the same.
这一次不同的是，大广告商的势力似乎对出版行业产生了心照不宣的影响：本文所联系的时尚杂志主编都不愿意就此发表意见，也不愿就提议中的抵制问题接受采访。《Vogue》杂志的主编安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour)曾在文莱事件中采取非常鲜明的立场，禁止《Vogue》的员工到多切斯特连锁酒店下榻，还强烈建议康泰纳仕集团(Condé Nast)旗下的其他管理层也这样做，但这一次，就连她也没有开腔。This time, along with Ms. Wintour, Cindi Leive, the editor of Glamour, and Roberta Myers, the editor of Elle, declined to comment, as did the openly gay (and recently married) Ariel Foxman, InStyle’s editor.
除了温图尔，《Glamour》的主编辛迪·里弗(Cindi Leive)和《Elle》的主编罗伯塔·米尔斯(Roberta Myers)都拒绝评论，还有《InStyle》的主编，已公开同性恋身份并且新近结了婚的艾利尔·福克斯曼(Ariel Foxman)。Even Joanna Coles, the normally loquacious editor in chief of Cosmopolitan, was silent Wednesday. (Testy relations with the news media are nothing new for Dolce & Gabbana. The designers have banned the fashion critics for The New York Times from their Milan runway shows since 2007, when they were angered by a review of their collections that year.)
就连《Cosmopolitan》的主编、一贯多话的乔安娜·科尔斯(Joanna Coles)在星期三也缄口不语（杜嘉班纳与新闻媒体关系向来不佳。2007年该品牌的米兰时装秀后，两位设计师看到《纽约时报》关于杜嘉班纳的一则评论后大为光火，从此便禁止《纽约时报》的时尚评论家出席他们在米兰的秀）。And while Madonna declined to comment, associates of the singer seemed to be making subtle attempts this week to distance her from the designers, noting that her relationship with Mr. Dolce and Mr. Gabbana has been contentious over the years. The message: Lots of people have issues with them.
麦当娜也拒绝评论，这个星期，她的助手们似乎在小心翼翼地做出努力，强调她与多尔奇和加班纳的关系多年来争吵不断，把她与这两位设计师的距离拉开。说起来，倒是很多人都看他们不顺眼。For their part, Mr. Dolce and Mr. Gabbana issued an apology, of sorts, that did little to mollify their critics.
在多尔奇和加班纳方面，他们发表了某种程度上的道歉，但并没有缓解对他们的批评。“We firmly believe in democracy and the fundamental principle of freedom of expression that upholds it,” Mr. Dolce said in a statement delivered by his spokesman, Paolo Cigognini, who declined further comment. “We talked about our way of seeing reality, but it was never our intention to judge other people’s choices.”
“我们坚决相信民主，以及自由表达这一民主的基本原则，”多尔奇通过发言人保罗·西格格尼尼(Paolo Cigognini)说，“我们说出了我们对真相的看法，但我们无意评判他人的选择。”西格格尼尼拒绝发表进一步评论。(On his Instagram page, Mr. Gabbana called Elton John a “fascist” and posted images of a Je Suis Charlie-style campaign, titled appropriately “Je Suis D&G.”)
（加班纳在自己的Instagram页面上说埃尔顿·约翰是“法西斯”，还贴了“我是查理”式的宣传画，标题是“我是杜嘉班纳”。）Italian fashion is largely a dynastic industry, but unlike Miuccia Prada, Donatella Versace or Angela Missoni, Mr. Dolce and Mr. Gabbana, who met in the early 1980s, do not come from money.
意大利时尚界以家族传承居多，但与缪西娅·普拉达(Miuccia Prada)、多娜泰拉·范思哲(Donatella Versace)和安吉拉·米索尼(Angela Missoni)不同，相遇于80年代初的多尔奇和加班纳并非出身富庶的家庭。Mr. Dolce grew up in Sicily. His father, according to a 2005 New Yorker profile, was a tailor and his mother sold fabric and clothing at a local emporium.
多尔奇在西西里长大，根据2005年《纽约客》上的一则人物特写，他的父亲是个裁缝，母亲在当地百货商场里卖布匹和衣服。Mr. Gabbana is taller, flashier, perennially tan and rides around Milan, his hometown, on a leopard-print motorino. His father worked in a printing factory and his mother worked for a laundry service.
加班纳身材更高、穿着更花哨，皮肤常年晒成古铜色，经常骑着带豹纹的摩托车在家乡米兰一带飙车。他的父亲在印刷厂工作，母亲在一个洗衣房里工作。The two began their business in 1985 and by the early 1990s, Madonna was wearing their clothes everywhere. She was the ideal spokeswoman for the two designers, who both rebelled against Roman Catholicism and yet revered its iconography.
1985年，两人成立了自己的公司，90年代初，麦当娜开始穿他们设计的服装到处亮相。她反抗罗马天主教，但仍尊敬它的图像，可以说是两位设计师的理想代言人。And like her, Dolce & Gabbana promulgated an image of excess but in real life were workhorses.
和她一样，杜嘉班纳也宣扬一种表面有些放肆，但在现实生活中，却非常耐用的形象。“You’d go into the stores and see all the studs and the bells and whistles in the front, but in the back there were surprisingly wearable clothes,” said the writer William Norwich, who worked for Vogue in the early 1990s.
“你到店里去，表面上看到那些铆钉和各种花哨的装饰，但令人惊讶的是，它们其实是非常具有穿戴性的衣服，”90年代初，为《Vogue》撰稿的威廉·诺威克(William Norwich)写道。The clothing business in the United States never became enormous, but by 2005, their company employed about 2,000 people.
美国的服装业从来就没有大过，但早在2005年，他们的公司就雇佣了约2000人。They started a fragrance business, Mr. Gabbana appeared on reality shows and the two men even recorded a cover version of the Andrea True Connection’s 1976 disco classic, “More, More, More.” Which is just what they did. In 2003, according to The New Yorker, they sold more products in Italy than Gucci, Prada, Armani and Versace.
他们开始进军香水产业，加班纳开始在真人秀上亮相，两人甚至翻唱了Andrea True Connection在1976年推出的迪斯科经典名曲《更多，更多，更多》(More, More, More)。他们就是这样我行我素。根据《纽约客》报道，2003年，他们的产品在意大利的销量超过了古驰、普拉达、阿玛尼和范思哲。Around this time, Dolce & Gabbana stopped being a pair — at least a romantic one. But in interviews, Mr. Gabbana talked openly about wanting children and made it clear he wasn’t referring to adoption.
就在这前后，多尔奇和加班纳分手了，但依旧是事业搭档。在许多访谈中，加班纳都公开谈起要孩子的事，还强调说自己不想收养孩子。Instead, the two spent the next several years fighting charges of tax evasion. They were convicted in 2013 and given a 20-month suspended sentence, only to have that reversed and the conviction vacated by Italy’s highest court in October 2014.
两人接下来的几年时间里，都在与逃税指控做斗争。2013年，他们被判有罪，获得20个月的缓刑期，2014年10月，意大利最高法院改判两人无罪。This February, they showed their latest collection in Milan. It drew heavily on that iconography and paid homage to mothers. Some of the models came down the runway holding babies. Others wore sweaters that said “I love you, Mama.”
今年2月，他们在米兰展示了最新系列。它大量使用肖像，表现出对母亲的敬意。有些模特抱着婴儿走上秀台，还有些人穿的套头衫上写有“我爱你，妈妈”字样。Shortly thereafter came the Panorama interview, where the designers expressed apparent opposition to gay families.
不久后就有了《帕诺拉玛》的访谈，两位设计师表达了对男同性恋家庭的鲜明反对。“They’re alienating a large portion of the customer base,” said Ed Filipowski, the president of KCD, one of the fashion industry’s largest public relations firms. “They’re alienating women or anyone trying to have a child in vitro and they’re alienating their L.G.B.T. constituency. It’s a serious issue.” (He added that he found Elton John’s comments on the matter commendable.)
“他们这样做等于是放弃了很大一部分客户，”KCD公司总裁艾德·菲利波夫斯基(Ed Filipowski)说，KCD是时尚界最大的公关公司之一。“他们这样等于放弃了希望通过试管婴儿方式要孩子的女人以及所有人，放弃了自身的LGBT人群基础。这是个很严重的问题。”（他还补充说，埃尔顿·约翰对这件事的回应是值得称颂的）。In what may turn out to be a P.R. problem in Hollywood, Dolce has long been a favorite on the red carpet. In 2011, Scarlett Johansson was decked out in a fitted lavender dress with a floral pattern. A year later, Selena Gomez showed up to the Vanity Fair in a gray sleeveless dress.
在引发好莱坞公关问题之前，多尔奇一直都是红毯宠儿。2011年，斯嘉丽·约翰松(Scarlett Johansson)穿了杜嘉班纳一件合身的淡紫色带花朵图案长裙。一年后，赛琳娜·戈麦斯(Selena Gomez)身穿一件灰色无袖长裙在《名利场》(Vanity Fair)上亮相。Terrence Howard wore a Dolce tuxedo to the Kodak Theater this year. In the auditorium, he sat near Ms. Wintour, whose daughter, Bee Shaffer, arrived wearing a Dolce gown. (Also wearing Dolce at the Oscars: David Oyelowo and Channing Tatum.)
今年，特伦斯·霍华德(Terrence Howard)穿了一件多尔奇的晚礼服，在柯达剧场亮相。入场后，他坐在温图尔身边，温图尔的女儿碧夏弗(Bee Shaffer)也穿了多尔奇的长袍。在奥斯卡颁奖礼上，大卫·奥伊罗(David Oyelowo)和查宁·塔图姆(Channing Tatum)都穿了多尔奇的服装。Now, all these people risk getting an earful from gay rights organizations and their publicists.
现在，这些人都面临遭到同性恋权力组织和他们的宣传人员斥责的可能性。“We have our annual Media Awards Saturday night,” said Sarah Kate Ellis, the president of Glaad, the gay rights organization. “We have a lot of people coming and we’re telling all of them that we would appreciate it if they not wear Dolce & Gabbana.”
“我们有年度媒体奖周六夜颁奖仪式，”同性恋权利组织Glaad协会主席莎拉·凯特·埃里斯(Sarah Kate Ellis)说。“会有很多人出席，我们会告诉所有人，如果他们不穿杜嘉班纳，我们将表示感谢。”Simon Halls, a founding partner of the entertainment public relations firm Slate PR, said: “I don’t think this is going to go away. I think people are really going to take them to task for this.”
西蒙·霍尔斯(Simon Halls)是娱乐公关公司Slate PR的创始人之一，他说：“我不觉得这事会马上过去。我觉得人们会谴责他们。”“These are families they’re talking about,” said Mr. Halls, who himself is an in-vitro fertilization parent along with his husband, the actor Matt Bomer. “These are children. Everybody’s got their own personal issues. Those guys are allowed as people to have their own opinions. But they also are public figures and when they communicate that kind of hate filled speech, they are firing up other like minded people in the most irresponsible way possible. It’s dangerous and despicable.”
“他们的话涉及家庭，”霍尔说，他自己也和丈夫、演员马特·波莫(Matt Bomer)采取试管婴儿方式剩下孩子。“还涉及孩子。所有人都面临着个人的问题。他们当然可以像普通人一样有自己的看法。但他们也是公众人物，当他们说出那种充满仇恨的话语时，就等于在以最不负责任的方式煽动那些和他们有类似看法的人。这是很危险，也很卑鄙。”Some of the anger appeared to go beyond gay rights.
针对他们的愤怒超出了维护男同性恋权利的范畴。Lynn Hirschberg, the editor at large at W Magazine, suggested that the designers’ heavy-handed behavior in the past was part of the reason the reaction has been so harsh.
《W杂志》(W Magazine)的特约编辑琳恩·赫舍伯格(Lynn Hirschberg)认为，两位设计师过去那些拙劣的行为也令这次人们对他们的反应格外严厉。“They’ve been unkind and difficult for many, many years, and people have been waiting to respond,” she said. “This is an all debts must be paid kind of thing.”
“很多年来，他们一直为人冷酷，不好相处，人们一直都在等机会反击，”她说，“就像是恶有恶报。”
