纽约时装周:一位新模特的后台生活

1 Kel Markey, Rookie Model
Beyond the glitz and glamour of the runway shows at New York Fashion Week are the chaotic schedules maintained by the models who give life to the gossamer pieces of fabric. Kel Markey, a 19-year old from Gainesville, Florida started modeling in March 2010 as an opportunity to travel and to pay for college. Represented by Supreme Management, one of the top modeling agencies in the business, Kel in her short six-month career she has already done a lookbook (a compilation of photographs showcasing a designer's collection) for Calvin Klein and has been featured in an editorial for the British style magazine Dazed and Confused. This is the story of her first New York fashion week.
凯尔.玛姬 模特新手
在纽约时装周T台秀的炫目光彩背后，是献身于裙裾飘飘的模特们所遵循的乱糟糟的时间表。19岁的凯尔.玛姬来自佛罗里达的基因斯维尔，她于2010年3月开始模特生涯，为的是使自己有机会旅行，并能够挣到钱支付大学学费。凯尔由“超级管理”公司代理，这是行业里顶级的模特代理公司。在她短短六个月的模特生涯里，凯尔已经为卡尔文·克莱恩制作了一本“展示册”（一种展示某设计师作品的照片图册），还成为英国时尚杂志Dazed and Confused的主编特写人物。本篇是凯尔第一次参加纽约时装周的故事。

2 Fit for Show
Before models can take to the runway, they must meet the designer for a fitting to decide what clothes they will wear for the show. Above, Kel is fitted by designer Sally LaPointe for a show to be held the following day. This process usually lasts anywhere from 15-30 minutes per model, but can often stretch late into the night as designers finalize who wears what.
首场演出
在模特们上场之前，必须先由时装设计师做“设配”，决定她们穿哪种时装出场。上图为凯尔正在由设计师塞莉做次日演出的设配，这个过程无论在哪里进行，每个模特一般需要15到30分钟，但等设计师最后决定每个人穿什么时装出场，常常要拖延到深夜。

3 Walking to Walk
Although the majority of fashion week shows are held at Lincoln Center, the geography of New York Fashion Week extends all across town, as models juggle schedules filled with castings, fittings and off-site shows. Although many models take cabs, Kel prefers to walk or take the subway. While walking, she is often on the phone checking in with her booker for updates to her packed schedule. "They kind of become your family during fashion week," says Kel. However, nothing beats actual family, as Kel took a moment to check in with her mom who was visiting from Florida for the week.
走去上班
虽然大多数时装秀都在林肯中心举办，但纽约时装周活动的地理位置贯穿整个城区，因为模特们排得满满的时间表里有演出，做设配和场外表演等等。尽管许多模特都打的，但凯尔宁可步行或者乘地铁。她常常一边走路一边打电话，和她的雇主确认她繁忙的时间表是否有新的变化。她说，“在时装周的时候，他们几乎成了我的家人。”然而没有人能和真正的家人相比，凯尔抽空去见了从佛罗里达到纽约来住一个星期的母亲。

4 The Look
"She is a really good model — a bit of a chameleon," says Melissa Batsel, a casting director who booked Kel for the Juan Carlos Obando and Yigal Azrouel shows. "She wears clothes and turns into whatever the stylist needs whether it is working a couture gown or an edgy downtown look. And she has a depth of intelligence in her eyes — worldly and soulful."
扮相
“她真是一名优秀的模特，有点百变，”梅丽莎.芭塞尔说。芭塞尔是演出导演，雇用凯尔做Juan Carlos Obando和Yigal Azrouel的作品秀。“她穿上时装，能满足任何风格的要求，无论是时装礼服还是新锐的城市服饰。她眼睛里有一种知性的深度，既世俗又空灵。”

5 Made Up
Models are chosen for shows based on certain intangibles that they can project, like sexy, chic or other alluring qualities. Although most models possess otherworldly beauty, hair and makeup stylists complete the fantasy that is fashion week with their own skills and artistry.
化妆
模特们之所以能被选上走秀台，是由于她们能散发出某种无形的特质，如性感，优雅或其它诱人的品质。尽管大多数模特都具有非凡的美丽，在时装周上，发型和化妆师能用他们的技艺使梦幻更为完美。

6 Repast
"See," Kel says, "models eat too!" Food is often provided backstage at shows for hungry models and members of the media. Although the fare provided varies from show to show, typically, the larger the venue, the more elaborate the catering budget. (For the record, Kel had to remind this absent-minded journalist to eat lunch.)
用餐
“看，模特也要吃饭！”凯尔说。演出时，主办方会在后台向饥肠辘辘的模特和媒体记者们提供食品。虽然各场演出提供的饭食不尽相同，一般说来，越是大场面，伙食标准越高。（在录音时，凯尔提醒心不在焉的记者吃午饭。）

7 The Rack
Each outfit, or look, is neatly organized backstage along with the models' photographs — a modicum of order in the chaos that goes into producing a fashion show. Models usually get into their first looks about 5-10 minutes before the show, but some models are required to walk the runway a second time with a different look, a process that requires a team of dressers and stylists on hand to help with the frenzied metamorphosis.
衣架
每套服装，或扮相，都在后台整齐地和模特照片安放在一起，这是制作一套时装秀的大混乱中少有的井井有条。模特通常在走台开始前五到十分钟穿上第一套服装。但有些模特需要穿另外一套服装第二次走台，这就需要服装师和发型师随时候场，以帮助快速换装。

8 Rushed
Staying true to the unpredictability of fashion week, the Charlotte Ronson show took about 20 minutes longer than expected, requiring Kel to rush to her final show of the day. Luckily her mother Kelly was waiting outside with a cab ready to go. The two of them quickly undid Kel's hairstyle for the Ronson show in the backseat leaving Kel a moment to relax with a quick snack.
赶场
时装周常有不测变化，这话不错。Charlotte Ronson专场结束比原定时间晚了20分钟，凯尔不得不匆匆赶往当天最后一个秀场。幸好她母亲叫好出租车等在外面随时准备出发。在出租车后座上，母女两人快速卸下上一场秀的发型，凯尔还小小地打了一个盹。

9 Lined Up
Although she arrived at her following venue, the A Detacher (pronounced ah day-tah-shay) show late, a team of makeup artists and hair stylists had her ready to walk in about 10 minutes.
排队
虽然她赶到下一场秀，A Detacher秀的场地迟到了，化妆师和发型师们用了大约10分钟时间就把她准备好了。

10 Into the Night
Kel's day, which started at 11am and ended at 8pm was an easy day by her measure, as most other days start substantially earlier and end much later. ONce New York fashion week is over, Kel will board a plane and head to London, to work the shows there. Asked what she would like to do after fashion, Kel is half serious when she answers, "I want to save the planet." Indeed, she will be starting at NYU this fall, focusing on Environmental Studies.
夜深了
用凯尔自己的标准来衡量，从上午11点开工到晚上8点收工，就是日子很好过的一天了。 大多数日子开工要早得多，收工也更晚。到纽约时装周结束后，凯尔会飞往伦敦去参加那里的走秀。问她等以后不做时装表演了想做什么，凯尔半认真地回答说，“我想拯救地球。”确实，今年秋天她要到纽约大学去上学，专业是环境研究。