圣罗兰任命新任创意总监 YSL picks Anthony Vaccarello as creative director

Belgian designer Anthony Vaccarello has been chosen as creative director of Yves Saint Laurent, with one of the world’s best-known fashion brands moving quickly to replace Hedi Slimane.

比利时设计师安东尼•瓦卡莱洛(Anthony Vaccarello)已确定出任伊夫•圣罗兰(Yves Saint Laurent)的创意总监，这家全球知名时装品牌快速为艾迪•斯理曼(Hedi Slimane)找到了继任者。

The appointment comes just four days after the departure of Mr Slimane, who shook up a brand founded more than 50 years ago, injecting pace and grunge aesthetic to great commercial success.

斯理曼离职仅4天后，圣罗兰就宣布了这一任命。斯理曼对这一创立50多年的品牌作出了剧烈改变，为其注入节奏感和垃圾美学，令圣罗兰获得了巨大的商业成功。

Yves Saint Laurent’s French parent, Kering, hailed the arrival of Mr Vaccarello, who has won fans in the fashion world thanks to his careful balance of minimalism and contemporary sex appeal.

伊夫•圣罗兰的法国母公司开云集团(Kering)对瓦卡莱洛的到来表示热烈欢迎。这位新任总监以其对极简主义和当代性感的精准平衡，赢得了时尚界的追捧。

Francesca Bellettini, president and chief executive of the fashion house, said on Monday: “His modern, pure aesthetic is the perfect fit for the maison [he] impeccably balances elements of provocative femininity and sharp masculinity”.

圣罗兰总裁兼首席执行官弗朗西斯卡•贝莱蒂尼(Francesca Bellettini)在周一表示：“他的现代、纯粹的美学理念契合了我们公司的定位。他完美地平衡了女性的性感和男性的锐利这两大元素。”

François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chairman and chief executive, described 36-year-old Mr Vaccarello as “a vivid and young force”.

开云集团董事长兼首席执行官佛朗索瓦•亨利•皮诺特(François-Henri Pinaul)称36岁的瓦卡莱洛是一股“年轻活力”。

The Belgian designer, who was previously at Italian brand Versus Versace, is to present his first collection for YSL in October during the Paris Spring-Summer 2017 fashion week.

安东尼•瓦卡莱洛此前效力于意大利品牌范思哲(Versus，Versace)。这位比利时设计师的首场圣罗兰时装展将于今年10月份的2017春夏巴黎时装周期间举行。

Mr Vaccarello faces a challenge to continue the extraordinary success achieved under his predecessor. Revenues between 2011 and last year saw a compound average growth rate of 29 per cent across all categories and regions.

瓦卡莱洛面对着一个挑战，他要延续前任所取得的非凡成就。2011年至2015年间，圣罗兰旗下所有产品全球营收复合增长率达到29%。

The brand also notched up its highest operating margin during the second half of last year. YSL accounts for 12 per cent of Kering’s luxury sales.

去年下半年，圣罗兰还创下最高营业利润率，其销售额占开云集团奢侈品销售的12%。

Last week, when Kering confirmed Mr Slimane’s exit, putting an end to months of speculation about his possible departure, some luxury analysts raised red flags.

开云集团于上周确认斯理曼的离开，为几个月来围绕其离职的猜测画上了一个句号。部分奢侈品分析师对此发出了预警。

“This is clearly a negative,” said Luca Solca, luxury analyst at Exane BNP Paribas, at the time. “Saint Laurent is the fastest-growing brand in the Kering portfolio . . . Slimane found the sweet spot.”

法国巴黎银行证券部(Exane BNP Paribas)奢侈品分析师卢卡•索尔卡(Luca Solca)当时表示：“这显然是个负面消息。圣罗兰是开云集团投资组合里增长最快的品牌……斯理曼找到了最佳定位。”