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欧罗巴十二宝之巴黎的伞

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For the Travel section’s Oct. 19 issue on Europe, writers and editors selected speciAl items to profile from a dozen cities. Below, explore everything from chocolate in Brussels to silk in Florence to design in Copenhagen.

在欧洲版10月19日旅游板块,作者与编辑精选了十二个城市的独特珍宝,下面,我们从布鲁塞尔的巧克力、佛罗伦萨的丝绸到哥本哈根的设计,逐一欣赏吧。

欧罗巴十二宝之巴黎的伞

Paris: Umbrellas

巴黎的伞

“Can you picture how drop-dead gorgeous this city is in the rain?” So muses the American tourist Gil Pender, played by Owen Wilson, in Woody Allen’s “Midnight in Paris.”

“你能想像在雨天,这座城市美得多么不可救药吗?”在伍迪·艾伦的电影《午夜巴黎》(Midnight in Paris)中,欧文·威尔逊(Owen Wilson)扮演的美国游客吉尔·彭达(Gil Pender)若有所思地说。

When you’re ready to find out, stop at Parasolerie Heurtault (85, avenue Daumesnil; ), a haven of handmade, high-end umbrellas in myriad materials and styles made by the craftsman Michel Heurtault.

如果你打算领略一番,就在赫尔托特伞店(Parasolerie Heurtault,多梅尼大街85号,网址)停下脚步。这家避风港专营的高端手工阳伞由手工艺人米歇尔·赫尔托特(Michel Heurtault)亲手制作,含各种材料和款式。

After a career making costumes for films, theatrical productions, historical balls and French fashion houses, Mr. Heurtault in 2008 opened his atelier-boutique to devote himself to the devices that had fascinated him since youth. “By 8 years old,” Mr. Heurtalt said, “I could take them apart fully and put them back together again.”

赫尔托特先生过去专职为电影、戏剧、历史主题舞会和法国时装店做衣服,2008年,他开了这家精品工作室,专门制作这件他从幼时就心醉神迷的物品——伞。“8岁那年,”赫尔托特先生说,“我就能把伞拆开,再完整地装好。”

Using both modern and centuries-old machines and tools, he and an assistant construct the shop’s wares. Fine and rare woods form the shafts. Handles range from sewn leather to engraved silver to carved wood inlaid with horn or jewels. Linen, cotton or silk — all treated to be impermeable to water and ultraviolet rays — are cut and sewn into the canopies, which might be adorned with lace, ribbon, embroidery or even ostrich feathers.

他和助手一起使用传承数百年的古典机器及现代工具为自己的店铺制造伞具。他们用精美而稀有的木头做成伞柄,把手丰富多样,缝着羽毛,雕刻着银饰,镶嵌着牛角或珠宝。伞布的材料则包括牛仔布、棉布和丝绸,处理后都不透水、不透紫外线,精心裁剪缝纫做成蓬盖,再用蕾丝、缎带、刺绣甚至鸵鸟毛加以装饰。

欧罗巴十二宝之巴黎的伞 第2张

To tap your inner Audrey, the Hepburn model (520 euros, about $640) is made from striped black and white fabric with black lace trim. The slim, straight beechwood stem and handle allow for easy twirling. The Dorléac (490 euros) is named for the actress Françoise Dorléac (sister of Catherine Deneuve) and sports a red sequin web under its black silk canopy. For protection from the elements (and paparazzi), the VIP (690 euros) features a deep bell-shaped canopy. The men’s version of the VIP, called Prosper (490 euros), incorporates black or gray silk, a maple shaft, and an inlaid horn handle.

为了宠爱你内心的奥黛丽·赫本,买一把赫本典范伞(520欧元,合640美元左右)吧,它用黑白条纹加黑色蕾丝边制成,笔挺修长的山榉木伞柄和伞把很容易旋转。丹妮芙伞(49欧元)得名于凯瑟琳·德纳芙(Catherine Deneuve)的姐姐、女明星弗朗索瓦斯·丹妮芙(Françoise Dorléac),黑丝绸的伞盖之下罩着红色的亮片网。为了保护用户免受恶劣天气(和狗仔队)的侵袭,VIP伞(69欧元)的特色是一张深深的钟形伞盖。VIP伞的男性版本叫做繁荣(Prosper,490欧元),由黑色与灰色的丝绸制成,有枫木伞柄和镶嵌牛角的伞把。

The shop even sells the Rolls-Royce of umbrellas — literally. Invited by Rolls to create an umbrella inspired by the car’s interior, Mr. Heurtault produced one with a curved ebony-wood shaft, a handle of white stingray leather, thin ribs sheathed in white silk, and a large black silk canopy. All for just 8,000 euros. SETH SHERWOOD

这家店甚至出售劳斯莱斯伞——千真万确。赫尔托特先生曾受劳斯先生邀请制伞,他受汽车内饰的灵感启发,制造了一把有弯曲檀木伞柄与淡灰白羽毛把手的大伞,纤细的伞骨外面包裹白绸,蒙着巨大的黑色丝丝绸伞盖,售价仅8000欧元。赛斯·舍伍德供稿。