金门岛居民眼中的两岸关系 Wary islanders see limits to cross strait detente

Hundreds of thousands of Chinese shells pummelled Taiwan’s Kinmen island during the cold war, killing many and terrifying the family of Wu Zeng-dong and others.

冷战时期，金门岛曾遭到数十万枚来自中国大陆的炮弹的打击，死伤惨重，许多家庭生活在恐怖之中，吴增栋一家就是其中之一。

Today the 58-year-old turns these spent shells into souvenirs, shaping the metAl into high-quality kitchen knives and selling them to the surging number of tourists visiting from China since restrictions were relaxed in 2008.

如今，58岁的吴增栋把这些炮弹的弹片变成了纪念品。他用弹片制成高品质的菜刀，出售给大陆游客。自2008年限制放宽后，入台旅游的大陆游客呈现激增。

Mr Wu is one of many residents riding a tourism boom on an island just a few kilometres from the prosperous Chinese city of Xiamen.

金门岛离大陆繁华城市厦门仅数公里，吴增栋只是金门岛上得益于这股旅游热潮的众多居民之一。

The population of Kinmen has jumped to 130,000, new shops and hotels including a 280-room five-star resort have opened and old army bunkers have been turned into adverts for the famed local sorghum wine.

金门岛人口已升至13万人，岛上开了新商铺和酒店，包括一家拥有280间客房的五星级度假酒店。曾经的军事碉堡也成了当地知名特产高粱酒的广告背景。

“We are just one small outlying island so it’s very hard to be self-sufficient,” says Mr Wu. “China’s economy has been doing so well and it can benefit us.”

吴增栋说：“我们只是一座小小的离岛，所以很难自给自足。大陆经济现在发展得很好，让我们现在也能从中受益。”

Taiwan received a record 9.9m visitors last year, with 40 per cent coming from mainland China.

2014年赴台游客人数破了纪录，达到990万人次，其中40%来自中国大陆。

But despite a thaw in cross-strait ties since President Ma Ying-jeou came to power in 2008, culminating in last weekend’s first meeting between the leaders of China and Taiwan, the relationship remains complicated.

两岸关系自2008年马英九出任台湾总统后开始解冻，并在最近的两岸领导人首次会面中达到高潮，但双方的关系仍然复杂。

Taiwan is independently governed but Beijing still claims it, and only about 20 countries are willing to recognise it for fear of upsetting China.

台湾是一个自治的岛屿，但北京方面仍宣称拥有台湾的主权。由于担心惹恼北京方面，世界上仅有大约20个国家愿意承认台湾。

The two sides coexist under the so-called 1992 consensus, in which they accept that there is “One China” but with different interpretations of what that means. Mr Ma calls this a “masterpiece of ambiguity”.

海峡两岸在所谓的“九二共识”下实现了共处。根据九二共识，双方接受“一个中国”原则，但对其具体含义各自拥有不同的解释。马英九称九二共识是一个“模糊的杰作”。

On Kinmen island, the contradictions of modern Taiwan are as clear as the views of China on a bright day.

在金门岛上，现代台湾的矛盾之处一目了然，正如晴天时一眼就能望见中国大陆一样。

Most of the Taiwanese military stationed here have left and their extensive tunnels, gun emplacements and weaponry have been transformed into historical sights popular with Chinese visitors armed only with selfie sticks.

台湾在金门岛的驻军大多已撤去，遗留下大量隧道、炮台和武器，这些都成了历史景点，受到大陆游客欢迎，这些游客登岛时唯一的“武器装备”就是手里的自拍杆。

But with Beijing threatening to invade if Taiwan declares formal independence, many beaches are still fortified against Chinese landing craft and hilltop observation stations keep an eye on the missiles based just over the border.

但由于北京方面扬言如果台湾正式宣布独立就将动武，这里的许多海滩仍设有防御工事，以防大陆的登陆艇，山顶的观测站也仍在监视着大陆设在沿岸附近的导弹基地。

The influx of Chinese tourists has boosted the economy but, like a growing number of Taiwanese elsewhere, local people remain concerned about becoming too reliant on the mainland.

大陆游客的涌入带动了金门岛的经济发展，但当地百姓仍担心变得过于依赖大陆——在台湾其他地方，也有越来越多的人有这种担心。

And while many residents are fiercely proud of their Taiwanese identity, they are reluctant to push for full independence for fear of China’s response.

虽然这里的许多居民都以自己的台湾人身份而充满强烈的自豪感，但由于害怕大陆的反应，他们不愿推动完全独立。

“It’s impossible to go for unification with China because our thoughts and political systems are so different,” says Mr Wu. “But I also oppose independence because that could lead to war and we’ve already suffered so much.”

“与大陆走向统一是不可能的，因为我们的思想、政治制度差别太大，”吴增栋说，“但我也反对独立，因为那会导致战争，我们已经承受了太多苦难。”

Lin Chu-chia, a deputy minister in Taiwan’s Mainland Affairs Council, which manages relations with Beijing, says that about 80 per cent of Taiwanese people want to stick with the status quo for now. The only consensus, he says, is that “Taiwan’s future should be decided by the 23m Taiwanese people only” in a referendum.

负责与北京方面打交道的台湾陆委会(Mainland Affairs Council)的副主委林祖嘉(Lin Chu-chia)说，目前约80%的台湾人民希望维持现状。他说，唯一的共识是“台湾的未来应当只由2300万台湾人民（通过公投）决定”。

He acknowledges that young people have grown more hostile to China in recent years partly because they fear greater economic ties have benefited businesspeople while disadvantaging the many. But even some of those making a living from Chinese tourists on Kinmen remain wary of their ever more powerful and assertive neighbour.

他承认，近年来，台湾年轻人已变得更加敌视大陆，部分原因是他们担心与大陆更紧密的经济关系只有利于商人而不利于多数台湾人民。但即使是金门岛上一些依靠大陆游客维持生计的台湾人，也仍对他们日益强大和强硬的邻居保持警惕。

In June, Liu Xiu-zhen opened a health store at the ferry terminal where passengers arrive from Xiamen, hoping to tap demand from Chinese tourists who do not trust medical products sold at home. Although she makes a living selling expensive baby milk powder, homeopathic treatments and traditional medicines to Chinese visitors, she remains wary of her neighbours.

今年6月，刘秀珍（音译）在来自厦门的旅客上岸的渡轮码头开了一家药店，希望从那些不信任大陆销售的医疗产品的大陆游客身上挖掘需求。虽然她依靠向大陆游客销售昂贵的婴儿奶粉、顺势疗法药物及中药为生，但她仍对自己的邻居保持警惕。